Courageous, inspired, confident. How best to describe the transformation of the Brun’s hotel from its 2 star alter ego to today’s 4 star sanctuary of comfort? Courage was tantamount in this case because here in a hidden corner of the Auvergne miles from any through route the norm is generally modest, rather unsophisticated accommodation offered at knock-down prices.
True, the Haut-Allier has had a Michelin star for its restaurant since 1998. So perhaps it needed a bedroom upgrade for those who make the pilgrimage to Philippe Brun’s gastronomic altar. Noix de Saint-Jacques de la baie de Saint-Brieuc juste snackées,
fine pâte en transparence d’herbes, onctuosité de
cresson, petits pois printaniers or Variation de pamplemousse cru et cuit, arlette croustillante à la rose, soupe de litchi are examples of his inspired cusine which is matched by exemplary service.
But those who do linger in the area will be rewarded not just by fine food. The surrounding countryside is totally unspoilt and incredibly beautiful, even if you are not a hiker or a fisherman. The gorges of the River Allier are within easy reach and the little tourist railway that fronts the hotel (seasonal and daytime trains only) is a great way to explore.
As for the spacious accommodations, some rooms have jacuzzi baths and bold colour schemes. Others reveal an almost zen-like purity and are remarkably peaceful.