Nestled in a tiny village in the heart of Cathar country, the Hostellerie Grand Duc is very much a family affair - and an uncompromisingly French family affair at that. The Bruchets have undertaken a painstaking restoration of this 18th century maison de maître over the last 30 years, maintaining the building's character (rustic rather than grandiose) and the classically elegant proportions of the rooms.
In the early days, chef/patron Bruno Buchet sensibly focused on the quality of his restaurant to establish the loyal clientele which is essential for the continued profitability of such an isolated hotel. For although the little village of Gincla is on the doorstep, it has little to offer except as a gateway to the glorious Cathar strongholds and the majesty of the Pyrénées Orientales.
Martine Bruchet runs a polished front of house while her daughter now cooks with her father in the kitchen. Cuisine in the oak-beamed dining room is as good as ever and the buffet breakfast is simple but generous and reasonably priced. Don't be put off by bedrooms on the second floor as there's usually a helping hand from the family to hump up your luggage. And the new bathrooms are a great success.
In short, the Hostellerie is rural France with a charm and a confidence to overcome any shortcomings.