The Ancienne Auberge is set in one of those 'plus beaux villages de la France'. Puycelsi is a largely pedestrianised Albigensian bastide atop a hill with superb views towards the Pyrenees. Quite full of tourists by day, it is quiet - apart from the church clock - and atmospheric by night.
But the key factor is the way that Dorothée Alexander has transformed this fine 13th century building, sensitively respecting its history and today's envirnmental needs; antiques successfully jostle with contemporary pieces. A log fire burns when it is too cool to dine on the shady patio. When required, tables also spill out onto the church square.
Madame Alexander's cuisine is a modern interpretation of carefully-researched regional dishes, the ingredients meticulously sourced from small, local suppliers. Her reasonably priced restaurant serves delicious, uncomplicated food while a separate bistrot is a welcome addition when lighter meals are the order of the day. Challenge her (albeit with a bit of notice) to pull out all the stops, and you will be in for a memorable feast. The tastefully decorated bedrooms are good value too, so book the best available - if possible, one with a small balcony.
In short, the Ancienne Auberge is an enchanting little hotel.