Here’s an hotel for purists. While some villages on the borders of the Auvergne and Rouergue can appear a little sombre, timeless Le Fel has immediate appeal, akin perhaps to a film set prepared for a Thomas Hardy adaptation. Flower-bedecked cottages nudge the narrow lanes and there are wonderful views over chestnut forests and pleached vineyards to the Auze valley below.
The serenity of its location, however, is but one of the hotel’s assets. You would expect a two star Logis de France at the centre of the hamlet to offer simple, compact accommodation and hearty fare. But, although bathrooms are on the small side, the bedrooms at this auberge are generally of a good size and all have been tastefully renovated by the new owners, David and Anais. Clean, cheerful colours predominate (see the website) and several rooms have a separate wc and/or a terrace or balcony.
David's cuisine, while true to its terroir, brings a lightness of touch and a subtle degree of innovation to traditional recipes in the panoramic restaurant. Outside dining is beneath a vine-covered pergola. A picnic lunch can be provided for hikers and electric bikes are available for hire by the less energetic.
Just up the lane is the futuristic Poterie du Don (www.poteriedudon.com), an English-owned showcase for modern ceramics that draws 30,000 visitors a year.