This charming hotel stands on a quiet square at the top of Puylaurens, a small Cathar town that straddles the spine of a steep hill in the heart of Cocagne country. (Cocagnes are balls of the blue woad that brought prosperity years ago.)
The view from the terrace beside the swimming pool is panoramic, stretching over the plain as far as the towering Pyrenees. It is here that you will dine by candlelight on warm evenings with a highly delectable set menu prepared by chef Xavier Mannier for no more than about 20 residents. It’s all wonderfully romantic and pleasantly private but the discreet welcome and friendly service ensure that everyone feels at ease.
The accommodation has been created from a couple of ancient, ochre-walled buildings. Prices vary according to season and week-ends carry a supplement. Superior rooms on the top floor of the annexe have lofty ceilings and are equipped with both bath and shower. Many have that breathtaking view over the valley and even those at the lowest price (Classique) are reasonably spacious.
Each bedroom is individually decorated in warm, harmonious colours with an eclectic mix of old and new. This is interior design at its most successful, with lots of chic, original touches that you will want to copy at home. Yet none of it detracts from the essentials of comfortable beds and practical bathrooms. Cap de Castel is a great place to stay.