If you’ve fallen madly in love and are desperately searching for an intimate hotel to celebrate your good fortune, look no further than this little corner of paradise, set in a wine village called (of course) St-Amour.
The bedrooms are very special – all of them a good size with fine linen and a clever mix of contemporary fittings and antique knick-knacks. The bathrooms (but not the loos) are integrated very effectively into the room but comfort has not been sacrificed for some slavish addiction to style. Spice names are used instead of room numbers - Tandoori is the only one with a balcony.
This gives a clue to the complex character of Cyril Laugier's Michelin-starred cuisine - a wonderful fusion of subtle flavours and original variants on locally-sourced ingredients. Here's an example from a recent menu: un pet de nonne (literally a nun's fart - ie light & wispy) à la pomme de terre garni de crème d'échalottes caramélisées, carottes cuites façon Vichy et en rémoulade, vinaigrette aux zestes d'oranges, curcuma frais et menthe. As night falls, the garden is romantically set with candles and breakfast here the next day is a memorable feast, with home made yoghurts and jams to die for!
The Laugiers are a talented and delightfully friendly couple. They continue to invest wisely, combining an instinctive touch with great originality, yet their prices, although edging north, are reasonable for such high quality hospitality and there is now also a bistro if you prefer simpler fare.