The hairpin drive up the narrow country lane to this hotel is not for the faint-hearted – nor for that matter for the Chelsea Tractor brigade. But the reward for those who do persevere is the lovely Auberge de la Madone. There cannot be many happier people than those installed on the terrace of its restaurant where the Millon family preside (père et fils dans la cuisine). The view is as admirable as the cooking.
To the left, the mediaeval houses of the perched village cling precariously to a rocky spur. Ahead, the wooded valley seems to go on forever, dotted with just a few unobtrusive dwellings. Since the auberge sits above a cul-de-sac road, perfect peace reigns, broken only by birdsong and the occasional church bell. Service manages to achieve that illusive balance between discreet formality and friendly involvement.
Choose for preference one of the front rooms to appreciate that gorgeous view, even more magical at sunset. Some guests have commented that accommodation rates are too high for the rather rustic standards on offer. We disagree. Bedrooms are priced by size and aspect - some have a sitting area, some have access to a communal terrace while the priciest have their own private loggia. Lowest rates are for rooms in the simpler annexe, Lou Portail, in an old building at the entrance to the village.